In Beijing’s CBD, the place with the highest density of exquisite white-collar workers in the city, men’s clothing hues are shifting with the weather warming up. Among the pile of black down jackets, you’ll intermittently spot shades of olive green. In a mere half-hour, you might brush past several gentlemen wearing Barbour jackets in forest green or navy, distinguishable by their corduroy collars. You may not remember their faces, but the impression of “the man in the Barbour” lingers.
The Barbour brand from England, once revered as “a symbol of the European upper class,” is now the jacket of choice among many of China’s elite men. This fashionable outerwear, though not as widely known as Patagonia, has quietly become a symbol of status. When two men choose Barbour, they feel a secret joy, as if they’ve found a kindred spirit who understands them.
This olive-green jacket was once controversial: if not well-matched, it could appear utilitarian, and its waxed material seemed demanding to maintain. Yet over time, people have reassessed its value, considering past inconveniences as a unique charm. When straight men break free from traditional sartorial confines and try their hand at waxing their clothes, showing off a unique British style, it also signifies their elevated charm.
Leo, a thirty-year-old male in the construction industry, opted for a Crested Strathyre Barbour jacket, which was a great value for money in the UK, with a substantial original price but a more reasonable actual cost. The waxed outer layer of this olive-green jacket gives it excellent waterproof capabilities, a celebrated hallmark of the Barbour craftsmanship.
The unique triple-crown logo on Barbour jackets represents the royal warrants bestowed by Queen Elizabeth II, Prince Philip the Duke of Edinburgh, and King Charles Prince of Wales. To better care for his jacket, Leo searched for relevant content on Bilibili, subsequently joining a Barbour enthusiast community. The group is predominantly male, where members share their fashion insights, discuss maintenance, repairs, and even group purchases of the apparel. In the interactions, members often showcase their stylish attire and occasionally flaunt upscale accessories, like watches or steering wheels, revealing a gentlemanly lifestyle attitude.
For brand advocates, Barbour is more than just a piece of clothing; it’s a symbol of identity, a stepping stone to high society. Since its founding in 1894, Barbour has leapt from mere outdoor laborer attire to a representation of British aristocratic culture and is esteemed by the British royal family. The Queen of England, Princess Diana, Prince Charles, as well as Duchess Kate and Prince George, have all been seen wearing Barbour waxed jackets at various outdoor events.
Nowadays, the Barbour jacket has become a non-verbal expression of status, symbolizing class, history, tradition, and quality. In China, the well-known menswear designer Mr. Qian pointed out that many customers who come to him to buy Barbour jackets are from the finance and law industries, as well as the middle-management of state-owned enterprises; to them, the value of Barbour lies not only in fashion but also in the social status it conveys.
Despite the inconvenience that may come with the use of Barbour’s waxed jackets, such as the potential to stain seats, needing extra care for storage and maintenance, these have not affected people’s affection for them. Mr. Qian himself owns two Barbour jackets, one waxed and one unwaxed, and he believes that although the waxed one is not often worn, owning a classic is necessary because it symbolizes the tradition of the brand.
Cultural commentator Douglas Greenwood points out that the Barbour jacket is an attainable luxury for middle-class men. It is seen as “eternal British style,” a clear symbol of wealth, and a mark of status for those who are fashion-conscious.
The influence of Barbour extends even further, as it often appears in popular culture, such as in the James Bond movie “Skyfall” and the British TV series “The Crown,” where the characters are dressed in it. This further confirms Barbour’s cultural status and its influence.
In summary, for those who seek elegance and a sense of measure, Barbour is a name card of status, embodying personal respect for tradition and quality, as well as the wearer’s dedication to detail and pursuit. Just as a gentleman wearing Barbour receives praise from his British colleagues in the company, Barbour indeed transcends clothing itself as a means of cultural communication and social recognition.
An interesting phenomenon occurs when searching for the Barbour brand on Chinese social media platforms: While most fashion brands are mostly shared by women, Barbour seems to attract a considerable number of men, especially middle-aged men, who are eager to share their styling tips. For 34-year-old financial industry practitioner Lin, Barbour is like another “uniform” outside of his suit.
Three years ago, Lin bought a dark brown corduroy-collared, olive green, hip-length Barbour Beaufort jacket through the online shopping platform Amazon. It is one of the three classic waxed jacket styles by Barbour, the other two being Bedale and Ashby. Because of his job, which requires formal dress, Lin chooses to wear a Barbour overcoat during autumn and winter. He feels that this combination meets the professional requirements, and does not look as bulky as down jackets or as casual as a fleece.
The tailored fit of the Barbour Beaufort jacket neatly covers the hem of the suit, maintaining a slim profile while looking appropriate. Lin mentioned that many British gentlemen also adopt this style because it is both formal and respectable. The jacket also features multiple pockets, including 2 side pockets for warming hands and 2 front bellows pockets, where one can store items such as keys, cell phones, or even a passport for everyday carry. The zippered inner pocket on the side of the jacket allows Lin to discreetly insert an extra down liner for warmth during the cold winter.
During business trips, Barbour also helps Lin cope with the climate changes between different cities. Once, he departed from the clear skies of Beijing and flew to Xiamen, only to be greeted by cold and drizzly weather when he got off the plane. At this time, the rainproof feature of his Barbour clothing was very useful.
“A heavy rain is the best respect for Barbour.”
The popularity of Barbour reflects to a certain extent the fashion consciousness of middle-class men: many men prefer to look “normal” rather than overly stylish. Wearing Barbour is enough to demonstrate their taste in clothing, without the need to attract attention through excess exaggeration.
Sociology professor Elin Massey de Casanova, in her book “Buttoned Up: Clothing, Conformity, and White-Collar Masculinity,” analyses the clothing concepts of hundreds of professional men, pointing out that men’s approach to clothing tends more towards “propriety” rather than words like “fashion” or “trendy.” Even in creative industries, straight men often worry that being too fashionable might lead others to question their sexual orientation. Men have a strong need for a sense of collective identity; they seek to blend into the group rather than stand out. Many men also believe that their physique or clothing should not be the focus of attention for others; what is important are their talents and thoughts.
As for the domestic market, male consumers who purchase Barbour have their own special circumstances and needs.
For a long time, Ms. Liu Taizhen has been closely following the dynamics of the fashion industry, and she has shared with us her insights into the domestic Barbour consumer group. She firmly believes that in China, the male group that chooses Barbour are not conservative, but on the contrary, they regard themselves as “high-quality males,” holding clear and high standards for the quality of their lives.
In China, Barbour’s popularity cannot compare with that in Europe and America. While most men choose between sports brands like Nike, Adidas, and Converse, those willing to invest in a relatively niche Barbour garment have already indicated a deeper pursuit of clothing quality.
People deeply love Barbour jackets for their excellent stretchability, which also poses a considerable challenge to the wearer’s ability to match outfits. After all, this is not just a choice of clothing, but an expression of styling skills.
In terms of price, Barbour jackets are relatively affordable. By contrast, Burberry’s coats typically sell for tens of thousands, not only representing a significant expense but also possibly giving off an overly ostentatious impression. Sociology professor Elin notes in her study that even wealthy men might avoid wearing overly expensive clothing, so as not to be seen as vain or overly concerned with personal appearance. A Barbour jacket priced at three thousand yuan appears modest yet tasteful, perfectly meeting the requirements of the middle-class gentlemen to dress “appropriately” without showing off.
When discussing the popularity of clothing, we not only see the impact of identity and gender expression but also people’s yearning and projection for a certain lifestyle. The passion for Barbour is evident among sartorial enthusiasts. For example, after purchasing a Barbour jacket, Young Wang, a post-95 generation who likes British gentleman’s attire, began a dedicated shopping journey into the world of Barbour.
Having learned that the essence of Barbour styling lies in layering, Wang not only added various vests to his wardrobe but also began to pay attention to the combination of details such as ties, French shirts, and cufflinks, and even acquired a pocket watch with a matching chain. The popularity of Barbour has spread from the gentleman’s circle to the cycling circle, where modern cyclists incorporate elements like Barbour jackets and Freitag backpacks into their daily attire, creating a unique social media phenomenon.
With the rise of urban light outdoor activities like camping, cycling, and urban hiking, Barbour’s outdoor nature is once again welcomed by people. The hunting, farming, and traditional masculinity that the Barbour brand originally carried are once again accepted and loved by modern society. Urban men express their longing for outdoor living through wearing Barbour jackets without necessarily stepping into the wilderness themselves.
Just like a middle-class woman showing off her Lululemon yoga pants to reflect a certain attitude towards life, what Barbour conveys is the male desire for a “happy middle-class family life,” as well as the personal career stability, family harmony, and tasteful living that are reflected through clothing.
Imagine on a peaceful weekend, a family wearing high-quality Barbour jackets drives to the countryside, brings tents, and enjoys the pleasure of camping in nature. This not only allows the family to spend quality time together but also lets them bring their pet dog to run around in the spacious natural setting. Such fine lifestyles always bring double satisfaction to middle-class men in terms of family happiness and career success.
Furthermore, Barbour also considers the needs of pets by launching items like leashes and bow ties for dogs, catering to the exquisite pursuit of pet owners.
As for the previously controversial issue of waxing, it is no longer an insurmountable problem. Among discussing business and stocks, men find the process of caring for their Barbour jackets a relaxed social topic. Sharing waxing techniques and wax types used showcases their focus on not just work but also living quality, achieving a balance between work and life.
To better demonstrate the styling effect of Barbour, here are some carefully selected outfit suggestions:
- Gentleman style: Pair the Barbour jacket with suits, waistcoats, and ties to portray an elegant gentleman’s taste.
- Urban Office Lady (OL) style: Match a plaid shirt with Barbour jackets, paired with a skirt or casual pants, as well as nude boots or sneakers to highlight the professional image of urban office workers.
- Street casual style: Unleash your personal creativity, try combining Barbour jackets with various shirts, pullovers, sweaters, and seek comfort and ease.
- Ame Kaji style: Motorcycle enthusiasts and Ame Kaji style followers can try matching a Barbour International motorcycle jacket with a pair of Levi’s jeans for a rebel and cool look.
